Repairing the Great Palisade Wall:
A Lesson in Collaboration
By Kurt Maechner
In the 1880s, the Denver, South Park & Pacific created an engineering masterpiece along its route to the famed Alpine Tunnel by suspending a railroad grade along the sheer cliffs of a rock formation known as the Palisades. Italian stone masons used local stone to create a 33-foot-tall, 452-foot-long retaining wall without using mortar. Stones were cut and stacked in a jigsaw-like puzzle and then backfilled to create a level path for the railroad.
After service through Alpine Tunnel ceased in 1910, the rails were not removed until 1924. In the 1960s, the road was cleared for auto traffic. Generations of railfans, jeep enthusiasts, and many others began traveling the route and visiting the great palisade wall and the remains of the station complex at the west portal. All this ceased eight years ago.
In 2016, an avalanche started above the Palisades carrying huge amounts of snow, rock, and other debris crashing down the mountainside. When this raging mass crashed onto the old railroad grade it didn’t stop or even get redirected along the road and over the side of the stone wall. Instead, the force ripped away the grade, along with a massive 50-foot portion of the over 130-year-old palisade wall, barreling the work of the Italian stone masons down the rest of the mountain. The event eerily mirrored one in the same location in 1884 when an avalanche swallowed up the town of Woodstock on the lower level of the railroad. That one destroyed a town; this one destroyed the road.
In 2024, eight years later, the road over along the Palisades is finally open once again. The journey to this point, though, has been slow. During the author’s 2018 visit, discussion with some Pitkin locals revealed a good deal of pessimism as to whether repair might ever occur.
Over the years, many wanted to see the palisade road open again, but none of these groups or individuals had the ability to do it themselves. Justin Kerns of the US Forest Service Gunnison District was one such interested party. He knew the USFS was supportive but lacked the means. While working on fixing the roof on the outhouse at Alpine Tunnel, he was introduced to Chuck Severance, president of a 4WD group, the Ute Pass Iron Goats (UPIG). Severance wanted to bring together all the various groups interested in the repair (railroad, historical, 4WD, hikers, and more).
Severance, then, pursued those in his sphere of influence, while Kerns reached out to the historical community. He raised awareness and requested letters of support in many places including on sites like the Narrow Gauge Discussion Forum and the C&Sng Forum. Letters poured in from individuals and groups such as the DSP&P Historical Society, Buena Vista Heritage, and folks in St. Elmo. These were essential in attracting History Colorado’s interest in and funding of the project.In the end, the diversity of groups interested in this project greatly motivated the NFS which subsequently hooked the consequential Great American Outdoors Act grants.
The biggest obstacle in any historic preservation is funding. In 2019 Severance and his UPIG, a 4x4 club based out of Woodland Park, helped the National Forest Foundation (NFF) apply for grants from the Colorado Parks and Wildlife OHV (Off Highway Vehicle) fund and History Colorado. UPIG and Colorado Off Road Enterprise (CORE) served as sponsors. In addition, three organizations filed applications for funds from the Great American Outdoors Act (GAOA): Gunnison National Forest, Colorado Off Highway Vehicle Coalition, and National Off Highway Vehicle Coalition.
All of the work in time led to five grants:
CPW OHV Grants for $100,000 for rock scaling
GAOA Grant for $50,000 for engineering
GAOA grant for $500,000 for reconstruction
History Colorado Grant for $250,000 for reconstruction
Polaris grant through NFF of $25,000 for reconstruction
Rock scaling began in the summer of 2022. The two-week project included three zones of work to target problem areas and create a safer site for upcoming work. The largest was above the Palisade wall. Four men did the work of hand scaling. This included hiking up above the scaling locations, hanging from ropes, and repelling down. From there, they would use a small rock bar to force loose stones to tumble down to the road below. Later the contract crew on the road moved the material over the other side of the railroad grade.
Marcus Trusty, founder of CORE (Colorado Off Road Enterprise), a motorized advocacy group, who served as site supervisor for this project said, “We looked like little kids standing at the edge watching big rocks fall off the side of the mountain which never seems to get boring.” At the completion of the scaling, about fifteen feet of debris and 100 of tons of rock was piled up on the road.
Trusty and CORE have adopted several trails including Hancock and Williams Passes. They have built a strong relationship with the two national forests (San Isabel and Gunnison National) that span both sides of Alpine/Altman Pass, doing much needed maintenance work on the trails. Their commitment to the area helped build more steam behind the initiative to fix the road along the Palisades.
In 2023, work was done to create new replacement stones for the Palisade wall. 70 cap stones plus 50-75 rocks for the wall itself were made. Thaddeus Hust, a historic stone mason from Salida who runs Agave Landscapes & Masonry, headed up the work. Some good rock that had fallen from the Palisades was used, but most stones were made from what some believe to be the original quarry site for the walls, tunnel entrance, and engine house: the huge rock field at the intersection of Williams Pass and the railroad grade (east of the Palisades). Many granite stones found here still bear old drill marks.
Granite is very hard which makes the splitting process easier and cleaner. While some modern technologywas used, the process is similar to how it was done in the 1800s. Using a Bosch hammer drill, workers punched holes into the rock and then pounded wedges to get the stone to crack.
The final and major process of rebuilding the road happened in large part due to the acquisition of $500,000 from the Great American Outdoors Act. Districts identify potential projects for GAOA funding and then send that list to the regional office. One key to success is to have projects already in motion or “shovel-ready”. The regional office, with the Alpine Tunnel road reconstruction listed, then went out for public comment, asking, “Which projects matter to you?” They gathered many comments from various sources expressing advocacy for the restoration of the road to Alpine Tunnel. The project consequently made the final list and received GAOA funding.
At last, in 2024 with funding in hand, work on the road began on June 18th, 2024. Workers excavated a ramp to 18-20 feet below the top of the wall. This allowed removal of loose and damaged stone. They excavated 12 feet of dirt back from the wall and laid a type of mesh fabric or grid for six feet. Rocks in the wall were stacked up 2 ½ to 3 feet, and then back fill was added. At this point, another layer of grid was added and the process was repeated roughly 8 times all the way up.
Workers acquired the fill dirt from a spot west of the Palisades which is believed to have been an original source for the DSP&P’s construction crews. In addition to this dirt, some stone from the rock scaling process was mixed in as well.
During the excavation process a few artifacts came to light. A few spikes turned up. A piece of rail surfaced. It was taken down to the Pitkin guard station with plans to put it on display in a museum. Other treasures included a “train brake” and small nails from dynamite crates.
A large concern for the reconstruction was drainage. The design included making the wall the high point so that water drains away from the wall and toward a newly constructed ditch on the hillside portion of the road. However, the new capstones have gaps, just as the originals did, in case water overflows the drain.
Once work wrapped up, an uninterrupted row of capstones lined the historic palisade wall once again for the first time in likely over a century. And, to boot, repair was done on several of the other smaller rock walls along the roadbed as well.
In the end, the work required roughly a million dollars to complete. Unlike the 1984 reconstruction of the Georgetown Loop’s Devil’s Gate Viaduct, which got the money from one Boettcher Foundation donation, the palisade wall reconstruction followed the path of most other restoration projects: the collaboration of a diverse group of individuals and organizations working together to get the job done.The surprise to those of us whose hearts are with railroad history is that a great deal of this collaboration was from those with other interests. There are always competing topics, goals, and methods between organizations, but the story of the reconstruction of the damaged palisade wall and the DSP&P roadbed is evidence that we owe a great deal of gratitude to these non-railroad-centered groups for their tireless efforts.
One honor worth mentioning is that Chuck Severance and the Ute Pass Iron Goats received the 2024 Colorado Off Highway Vehicle Coalition of the Year award for their work on restoring the road to Alpine Tunnel.
Amidst the joy of hearing that the closure order on the road to the west portal had been lifted, a literal road block popped up. Close to the Alpine Tunnel station complex, a large boulder, fell onto the roadbed. CORE and UPIG have the equipment, expertise, and motivation to remove it, but red tape with the forest service stands in the way of the work. As before, Severance is working to get the permission to forge ahead once again.
Sources:
“Alpine Tunnel Palisade: Multi-Year Project Completed” Colorado High Trails, Fourth Quarter 2024. Colorado Four Wheel Drive Association.
“Alpine Tunnel Palisade Wall Rebuild I Project Overview I Funding I Tomichi I Williams I Hancock” Keeptrailsopen https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cS8GUm6LVUM, posted 17 Aug. 2024.
Correspondence with Justin Kerns and Chuck Severance